Many believe that hip-hop artists' clothing lines are a trend, but the revenue that they produce annually suggests otherwise.
The NPD Group, a market information company, reports sales of hip-hop clothing for 2002 at $2 billion. This estimate does not only include apparel, but also footwear and accessories.
"I think it is a growing industry because so many different rappers and celebrities are coming out with lines and street wear is very popular," said a representative from the NPD group.
Up Against The Wall, one of the leading urban wear stores in Washington, DC, carries many of the popular hip-hop artists clothing lines. Some of these lines include: Rocawear, Sean John, J. Lo, Phat Farm and Baby Phat.
Izzy, the president of Up Against The Wall, said that Rocawear brings in the store's highest sales, with over $2 million annually. Sean John comes in second place bringing the store about $1 million in annual sales.
Although these clothing lines and others bring in a large sum of money, Izzy believes that many of the hip-hop lines will not stand the test of time.
"There are about 40 or 50 (clothing lines) in total and they will not all last. I don't think people will always follow what some entertainer tells them to wear as a general rule, " explained Izzy, who went on to say that he sees longevity in Rocawear and Sean John.
Some do not share his sentiment.
Aba Bonney-Kwawu, founder of the Aba Agency, a company, whose services include image development and fashion consulting, said hip-hop artists clothing lines are not a trend.
"It's going to be a mainstay. It's like their music and fashion go hand in hand, but it's just going to evolve depending on the way the rap and the music evolve."
Hip-hop is a genre that attracts adolescents to college age adults. As a result, one can find many of the hip-hop artists clothing on the backs of students at Howard University. Although this may be the case currently, some students believe they will eventually grow out of this type of dress.
"I think they are a fad because 10 years from now, we will not be wearing them," said Brandon Brice, a junior international business major. Brice explained that lines such as Sean John and Rocawear are too trendy and do not have as much universal appeal as mainstream clothing lines such as Ralph Lauren.
The current clothing sales suggest other wise.
Jennifer Lopez's line, J.Lo, sold $130 million in sales last year. Rocawear and Baby Phat tied by earning $300 million in 2002, but P. Diddy's Sean John line topped them all, bringing in $450 million last year.
Many enjoy the fashion of hip-hop artists, but believe that they should not be worn exclusively.
"There's nothing wrong with wearing clothing lines that are based on hip-hop artists, but you should not be limited to them just because he or she is your favorite artist," explained Kwame Mbalia, a junior Biology major. "I think you should not follow the trend. If you see something you like...that might be Kenneth Cole or Tommy Hilffiger...then you should wear it."
Hip-hop is not only affecting the urban clothing industry, but also affecting new styles of luxury designers.
"They are really driving fashion through luxury goods, in that a lot of "ghetto" people had never heard of Moskino...until Lil' Kim or Biggie Smalls...," explained Bonney-Kwawu. "Chanel and these luxury designers are now having to make clothing to suit this new, black customer who maybe wasn't raised on it, but their od-ing on it right now."
Jamie Ross, creative director of the youth division at Donegar Group, a fashion consulting firm, agrees that hip-hop is making an impact on mainstream clothing lines.
"Many mainstream clothing lines look to street fashion for ideas, such as Dolce & Gabana. Gap has joined Madonna and Missy Eliot," explained Ross, "The subculture has become the main culture."
Despite hip-hop artists' clothing lines bringing in large amounts of money, some do not believe that there is a true sense of fashion behind them.
"They are based solely on the star power of who is behind it, there is no real fashion involved," said Jeremiah Mcfarlan, a junior information systems major at Howard University.
Beverly Ramsey, who has been designing formal wear since 1998 agrees that they are not the best forms of fashion, but there are some who are close to high fashion. Ramsey said that Sean John is closer to couture than others because of its collection of men's suits.
Whether or not hip-hop artists clothing lines will stand the test of time is still a mystery, but more and more are appearing every day. Eve released her line, Fetish, this fall, whose clothes are described as sophisticated and urban.
Beyonce Knowles, who has gained much acclaim in the hip-hop world since her solo album, Dangerously in Love, is starting a clothing line with her mother who designs most of her wardrobe.
These upcoming lines may have the same success of many of their predecessors, but it seems hard to predict how long the success of these labels will last.
If the current sales continue to remain high for hip-hop clothing lines such as Sean John, Rocawear and Baby Phat, they may prove the critics wrong who say they are merely trends.
